Thanks! 1. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. Thanks. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Then it started behaving oddly. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. The IAC going to 30 is normal. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. nothing stays steady. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. Always had to set idle above 950. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. Thanks for all your help Chris! Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. The fact that it ran so (at times) with 90+ PSI fuel pressure is a testimony to the Holley's closed-loop technology. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I keep doing that with the same result. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Um, no. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. Is this an issue to worry about? The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. Not that I noticed. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. I'll give the ". I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. They are prone to be inaccurate. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. Enjoy! The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. Chris, But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Thanks again for your insights! Thanks in advance for any advice. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). We do that but most places don't. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. Ok, so I'm stumped! Yes, you are correct. I can get it to fire up on the You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Without it you are working in the dark. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Your task will be to find that. Is there away to lean the idle out? I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. One of the best Ive seen so far. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. It's not necessary to drive it that way. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. I'll have to check again tomorrow. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. If more info is needed just ask. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. That is not the way to go. My Sniper is 99% great! i would have been happy to answer there. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. The fix? But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Any ideas here? What can I do? Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. I will let you know what the results are. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Chris thank you for the info. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. First thing I would check Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 Please advise. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. I guess we can't have everything. I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Hello Any help would b great. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. All times are GMT-6. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. check out the. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. So the issue Im having is low idle. any advise would be appreciated. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: Im having an issue with what I think is the Iac. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly.
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